There’s something about the word Mandalay that made me want to go to the city before I knew anything about it.  Man-da-lay.  The sound of it, the way it rolls off the tongue. I pictured a lazy river town, blanketed in rolling fog, with men steering Burmese-style gondolas against the background of mossy-green mountains. A painting come to life. But like most places I romanticize, Mandalay was far from what I imagined.The city was sprawling, dusty and noisy. The humidity was thick and the air hot. Rain water pooled in the pot holes littering the roads.

But it wasn’t all bad. In fact, hidden behind the dirty facade of the country’s second biggest city was something worth exploring. Here are the highlights, which I saw in one day, thanks to the wonderful driver from Hotel Yadanarbon (about $20 USD).

1. The Golden Buddha at Mahamuni PayaAfter visiting all of the temples and buddha statues in Bagan, I really had no desire to see another one. However, I’m glad the driver talked me into it. Every day, religious devotees gather around the giant figure to paste gold leaf on its body. In fact, over the years the statue has grown six inches in thickness because of it.

2. The Shwenandaw MonasteryAlso known as the Golden Monastery, this building is famous for its teak carvings of Buddhist myths. Adorning the walls, doors and roof, these miniature works of art make it possible to imagine what the Royal Palace once looked like, since it’s the last wooden structure left after the fire during World War II.

3. The Mandalay Palace

Even though most of the palace was rebuilt in the 1990s, walking through the complex is still worthwhile. The now concrete buildings were modeled after the original palace, constructed in 1857 by King Mindon Min, and was destroyed by Allied bombing during the second world war. Make sure to climb the stairs of the watch tower to view Mandalay Hill.

4. Kuthodaw Pagoda & “The World’s Largest Book“When I heard the driver was taking me to “The World’s Largest Book” I assumed it would be something like Burma’s take on America’s roadside entertainment (“Biggest Ball of Yarn, Exit 7!), but I was wrong. It was much better than that. Built by King Mindon, 729 marble slabs stand at the bottom of Mandalay Hill, inscribed with Buddhist teachings. The project took about eight years to complete and is definitely worth seeing.

5. Mandalay HillIf you ask anyone about the one thing you should see while in the city, they will most likely say Mandalay Hill. With views of Mandalay and the Irrawaddy River, it’s the perfect place to watch the sun go down. It’s also a good chance to interact with locals, as many monks and students wait at the top for the chance to practice their English skills.

Where I stayed: Hotel Yadanarbon. Located in downtown Mandalay, and reasonably priced, this was the perfect option for me. I was really impressed with the cleanliness, the friendliness of the staff, and the driver they employed to take me around the city. The hotel also has a “sky bar” that serves food and traditional entertainment, including a puppet show and music.

Have you been to Mandalay? If there’s anything you loved that I left out, please comment. I’d also love some food suggestions, as I didn’t find anything notable on my own.

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When I moved to Shanghai, I lived across the hall from a very superstitious man. Red cardboard cutouts of horses decorated his doorway, red underwear hung from his balcony, and it seemed he had enough fireworks to launch a full-scale pyrotechnics show for even the tiniest occasion. But I had no idea what any of it meant. That is, until Chinese New Year rolled around.

The weeks leading to the holiday, I was gifted with oranges and tangerines, offered a giant, glittering cardboard sheep for my door, and advised to deep-clean my apartment (as he peered over my shoulder, through the newly decorated doorframe). I was also advised to settle any debts, not to wash my hair, and not to cry. This was all important, he said, in order to receive good fortune in the year to come.

But even more important, in order to be lucky in love and in my finances (he seemed very invested in my dating life—or lack thereof), I needed to watch what I ate. And thankfully this did not mean scaling back on my calories.

Eating “lucky foods” is a very important part of the Chinese New Year celebration, playing not only into superstitions, but also tradition. And since it may or may not have been the reason for my lucky year (yes, I even got myself into a relationship), I’m going to make the following foods part of my own traditions.

Dàn Jiǎo (蛋饺)Apparently egg dumplings look a bit like the old Chinese currency. But I’m sure they taste way better. Do yourself a favor and eat the pork-filled treasures in Elixir Health Pot’s savory, crack-like broth.

Yú (鱼)Since the Chinese word for fish is pronounced the same as the word for “abundance,” eating it whole allows for a surplus of all things good. And if you don’t mind spice, the Hunan-style perch at Hunan Country Cuisine is pretty tasty, and a good deal at 60 kuai.

Chūnjuǎn (春卷)Spring rolls remind people that spring is coming, which makes people happy. They also slightly resemble gold bars, which also makes people happy. Eat the yellow croaker spring rolls at Jian Guo 328 and you’ll be downright delirious.

Babao fan (八宝饭)Translated to “eight treasure rice,” the sweet mound of sticky rice, mixed with dried fruits and nuts, symbolizes the reunion of family. Pick one up at Wang Jia Sha on Nanjing Rd W and share it with your loved ones for a sweet year ahead.

This came from an article I wrote for City Weekend magazine in Shanghai. I now have a monthly column for this publication, where I stuff my face and report my findings. What could be better? To see the full article, visit cityweekend.com.cn. 

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Last year, I had the opportunity to explore Shanghai by night, with food tour company, UnTour (post here).

We spent more than three hours gorging ourselves with noodles, soups, a variety of meats, root vegetables, crayfish, scallops, fruit puddings, and anything we could find, served on a stick. The guides took us through the history of Chinese street food, and led us through a labyrinth of vendors.

The night concluded at a restaurant overlooking the closely-packed stalls on Sipailou Lu, which at the time, was the city’s best-known food street. It had been raining that night, but even so, the lane was abuzz with people. Smoke and sweetly scented steam billowed from the movable kiosks, as patrons eyed the skillful swirling of woks. Vendors smiled, despite moving at a frenetic pace. They seemed happy that we wanted to taste what they were cooking.Unfortunately, just a few months later, the market was gone. Over the summer, the local police had removed all of the stalls, and closed most of the restaurants. UnTour’s founder, Jamie Barys, explains that this is a result of the “better city and better life” campaign, a remnant of the 2010 Expo. “We can’t be sure of why Sipailou Lu got the ax when it did,” says Barys. “Our vendors were just as surprised as we were when it happened.” She speculates that it might have something to do with the street’s proximity to Yu Gardens, and the need for a sanitation overhaul to impress tourists.

I would tend to agree. While the old route was great , the new tour shows a more interesting side of Shanghai.

In addition to the familiar Shouning Lu (shown above) UnTour has included a Xinjiang restaurant, serving what Barys calls “the best lamb kebabs this side of Kashgar.” They’ve also added an introduction to “the yin and yang of Chinese booze (white liquor and black beer).

But for me, the best part of the new tour was discovering a thriving nighttime food street, a short walk from my apartment. Hidden behind the opulence of Xintiandi (literally translating to “new heaven and earth”), lies something really special. From 8pm on, locals stand in long lines for bowls of hot, freshly made soy milk. The sound of slurping resonates within hole in the walls–the effect of really, really good noodles. And the smell of rich peanut sauce begs passersby to indulge in Er Guang’s famous pork and mustard greens-stuffed wontons.

This is the Shanghai I’ve fallen in love with, and the one I hope will remain, despite the government’s desire to “better” the city. Because, in my opinion, there’s nothing better than this.

The post Disappearing Shanghai: Untour’s New Night Market Route appeared first on Adventurous Appetite.

First, I apologize for posting an article about an ice festival just one week before April, but I’ve been busy. Actually, I’m still busy. So this is why you’re getting a photo essay.

But before I dump my SD card on you, here’s some background: The Harbin Ice Festival has been going on annually for about 17 years, and is now one of the biggest in the world. It’s made up of three snow and ice sculpture parks, and goes from the end of December through February.

Where is Harbin, you ask? It’s in China. More specifically, Northeast China. It was once a sleepy fishing village, until 1897 when Russians settled and built what is now known as the Trans-Siberian Railway. So besides being a place to see cool ice sculptures, it’s also a way to soak up some Russian culture in China. 

Here’s a look at Zhongyang (Central) Pedestrian Street, Sophia Square, and of course, hawthorn berries! Now, I have always been a sucker for the sugar-coated, slightly sour crab apples, but Harbin took the treat to a whole new level. They’re not just peddling haws, but also bananas, pineapples, grapes, strawberries, kiwis–pretty much any fruit the vendors can get their hands on. And since it was -15 degrees Celsius ( 5 degrees Fahrenheit), the fruit was frozen. Yes, it might sound crazy to eat frozen fruit in that kind of weather, but there comes a point when your body is colder than the frozen food you’re eating, and it doesn’t matter. Plus, it was delicious. To get to the snow park, we had to cross the river. We chose to take the cable car there, and on the way back, we walked on the ice. There were other options, such as dog-pulled sleds, carriages, and even motorcycle-led inner tubes, but seeing the look on my Australian boyfriend’s face as he slid across the frozen lake was just priceless.Here are some pictures from the Sun Island Scenic Area. The snow sculptures were pretty impressive, and we especially liked the town made of snow. However, nothing–and I mean nothing–tops what was happening inside the park. Please see below.I can’t accurately describe how amazing this was, so I’m including a video. So, I guess I’ll have to call this a photo-and-one-video-essay. You’re welcome.

Next, it was time for Harbin’s main attraction: Harbin Ice and Snow World. Word to the wise: public transportation between venues is scarce, so arrange a taxi beforehand. We had actually given up on finding a taxi, and began the 30+ minute walk (in the cold and wind). Luckily, a nice bus driver took pity on us and pulled over. He wouldn’t even take our money. I could have kissed that man.Above are some pictures of the park around 4:30pm. I would recommend getting there before the sun sets, as the sculptures are just as impressive without the lights. When we were there, the sun set just after 5:00.
The Ice and Snow World really surpassed my expectations. I had seen pictures in the past of the brightly-lit sculptures, but viewing them in real life was just magical. Plus, we had a blast going down the slides. The lines were long, but worth it. Just grab a beer or a hot tea, and enjoy the surroundings. And note that you will come down FAST. We ended our short stay with a nighttime stroll down the pedestrian street, while eating the area’s famous red sausages, and the BEST ice cream I’ve had in my life. Seriously. I have had some good ice cream in my days, but there was something special about this. Maybe it was because you could buy it off the street, without the need for refrigeration (that’s just cool), or maybe it was the consistency (soft-serve meets popsicle), or maybe it was the flavor (rich, sweet milk taste, although slightly sweet and sour). I don’t know. All I know is that it was damn good, and if you go to Harbin and don’t try it, just stop reading my blog.

Where I stayed: Holiday Inn Centre Harbin.  Reasonably priced, clean, and a great location (right in front of the entrance to the pedestrian street). The staff wasn’t able to make recommendations, but they did provide me with a map and were hospitable.

What I ate: I’m only mildly embarrassed to admit that almost everything I ate in Harbin came on a stick. I may or may not have ingested five (or so) red sausages (think really good hot dogs, grilled, and rolled in red pepper, salt and cumin), several lamb kebabs, a variety of frozen fruits on sticks, and ice cream. You can get all of these things on Zhong Yang street. Just look for the stalls with the biggest lines. We also ate hot pot, and goulash and potatoes at some obscure Russian restaurant that I cannot, for the life of me, remember or find online. Do yourself a favor, and stick to the sticks. 

Things you should know: 

• Taxis are few and far between, even at the airport. Know that it is common to share taxis with other passengers, and that the men soliciting their taxi services inside the airport are legit. You just need to ask them to use the meter (请打表; qĭng dă biăo). It should cost around 120 RMB from the airport to the city center, and take approximately 45 minutes.
• The ice festival is not organized in the same way it would be in, say, the United States. Make sure to get a map from the hotel, and have them circle the points of interest on the map (and make sure it’s in Chinese). Organize a taxi to take you to and from the sites, or make sure there are public busses running (and make sure to know the number).
• It’s freaking cold! Plan to wear thermal underwear, a long-sleeve shirt, sweater, coat, scarf, hat, two pairs of socks and boots. Heat packs saved my life. You can buy them all around Harbin, and stick them on your feet and in your coat pockets. The Japanese brand worked best.
• The entrance fees are expensive. It was 240 RMB (approx. $37 USD) to see the snow sculptures at Sun Island Park, 300 RMB ($46 USD) to get into Ice and Snow World, and 100 RMB (approx. $15 USD) to see the tigers at the Harbin Siberian Tiger Park.
• The red sausages, all the fruit on sticks, and the ice cream are amazing. Eat as much as humanly possible. (I know I’ve already stated this, but it’s worth repeating.)

Have you been to Harbin? What did you think?

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When I was a little girl, I used to sit in front of my parents’ TV for hours, singing along to Rodgers and Hammerstein’s South Pacific. “Bali Ha’i may call you, Any night, any day, In your heart, you’ll hear it call you: Come away…Come away.”

This siren song, while technically not about the idyllic Indonesian island of Bali, played in my mind long after the glow of the television screen had dimmed. And in my dreams, visions of rice terraces, palm trees and temples appeared–the waves washing over me.

I can’t believe I waited so long to go. Especially after living and traveling around Asia for five years. But, I’m happy to report that it was everything I hoped it would be–a week of sunshine and bliss.

Here’s a look at the highlights:

1. Staying at this placeSome trips are for traveling, and some are for relaxing. And while there were things I definitely wanted to see while in Bali, the top items on my to-do list were: 1. lounge by a pool, 2. stare off into an infinite field of rice paddies or pandan trees, and 3. do not think about work.

Originally, I had my heart set on staying in Ubud–Bali’s cultural and artistic hub. But after finding this private villa in Canggu for less than $100 USD a night on AirBnB (including breakfast and maid service), I had to stay there. I had no idea where Canggu was, and I didn’t really care. All I knew was that I wanted to eat in that open kitchen. I wanted to read in the open living room.  I wanted to swim in that pool.

2. Staying in Canggu As I mentioned before, I had no real desire to stay anywhere other than Ubud. However, after visiting Ubud and a few other popular areas, Canggu was actually my favorite.

Canggu is a small village, about 20 minutes (by scooter) from Seminyak. In recent years, it has become an enclave for surfers and health-conscious sun worshippers. As a result, the Echo Beach area is dotted with boutique surfing schools and healthy cafes. While I didn’t spend time on a board, I did frequent many eateries. My favorites were Betelnut Cafe, Crate, Cafe Avocado and Nalu Bowls.

3. Taking a cooking class in Ubud I’m not posting too many pictures here, because I plan to write a separate post about my experience. But let me tell you, Paon Bali Cooking Class was the best way to spend a morning.

We rode our scooter (about 45 minutes) from Canggu, and met our guide at the Ubud market to learn a little about the local fruits and vegetables. About 30 minutes later, we took a van up the mountain, to arrive at a Balinese family’s home, where we were greeted with lime juice and smiles.

The property was beautiful and the class was well-organized. And I kid you not, it was the best food I had while in Bali. Will post recipes next week.

4. Renting a scooter to see the sights (and getting lost)We rented a scooter for $5 USD a day, and spent most of our free time getting lost and exploring the island. Word to the wise: pull up the intended address on Google Maps before you leave, while you still have WIFI. It will continue to track your location, and you’ll save a lot of time and energy.

Places to go: Tanah Lot Temple (go in the late afternoon to catch the sunset. We also stayed for the Kecak Fire Dance, which was interesting, but we didn’t stay for the whole performance.), Pura Ulum Danu Bratan (a beautiful temple on an even more beautiful lake), the Ubud Monkey Forest (I liked it much more than I anticipated), and the landscape/rice paddies around Ubud (we enjoyed exploring by ourselves rather than the more touristic “scenic spot.”).

5. Enjoying Bali’s scenic landscapes, beaches and sunsetsI’ll let these photos speak for themselves. Every place we went was a postcard come to life.

In one week, I feel like I simply scratched the surface of an island filled with beautiful landscapes, dynamic and healthy food, and welcoming people. The siren song is still calling. And I plan on answering it soon.

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I made this. From scratch. I am so freaking proud of myself, I want to post this everywhere.

It’s what I’m calling a “pumpkin ricotta phyllo tart,” but it should be called “the miraculous outcome of mixing and baking a hodgepodge of ingredients.”

A few weeks ago, I was selected to participate in Shanghai online grocer Epermarket‘s “Halloween Battle.” Along with a few other food bloggers, I was sent a box of mystery ingredients, and asked to create one cohesive dish. A huge fan of the TV show, “Chopped,” I happily agreed.

Giddy with excitement, I opened the the box to find a small pumpkin, purple sweet potatoes, a tub of ricotta cheese, Bougon Buche Fraiche cheese, salted butter, free range eggs, organic mint, phyllo dough, green pistachios, brazil nuts and a bag of Carambar caramel candy. That’s right, 11 ingredients and one dish. The once overly confident couch potato was all of a sudden not so confident.

But, my competitive nature kicked in, and I somehow managed to mix all of the ingredients in a way that worked. I’m telling you, I’m still shocked and confused about how it all worked out. But it did, and it tasted amazing. Here’s the recipe:

Pumpkin Ricotta Phyllo Tart

Makes 12 servings. Prep/cook time: A lot. Two separate nights, really.

Ingredients:
1 small pumpkin
1-2 purple sweet potatoes (if do not have, you can just use pumpkin) 1 cup ricotta cheese
1/4 cup Bougon Buche Fraiche cheese (or cream cheese)
A little less than 1/2 cup white sugar
2 eggs
2 TBSP orange juice
1 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/2 stick of salted butter
9 sheets of phyllo dough
1 handful of pistachios
Small bag of caramel candy
Approx. 5 TBSP milk
Small handful of mint

Method:
1. Roast the pumpkin and potatoes. Since I always have trouble cutting through raw pumpkins, I threw the whole thing in the oven. Place it on a cookie sheet for about 30 minutes at 175 degrees Celsius, or until fork-tender. The potatoes will take around the same time, but check before the 30 minutes. Make sure to poke holes in the potatoes. *Note: you can omit the potatoes and just make it with pumpkin, if you prefer.*

2. After the pumpkin and potatoes have cooled, remove the seeds of the pumpkin and the skin of the potatoes and pumpkin. Measure 3/4 cup of equal parts pumpkin/potato puree and place into a food processor or blender.

3. Preheat the oven to 175 degrees Celsius. Add the ricotta cheese, Buche Fraiche cheese, sugar, eggs, orange juice, cinnamon and nutmeg to the pumpkin/potato puree and blend until smooth.

4. Fill two muffin trays with the mixture (makes 12). They should be half-full.

5. Bake for approximately 20 minutes, or until firm. A toothpick should come out almost clean.

6. When cool, remove the custard from the muffin tray and place in the refrigerator for a few hours, or overnight. Also remove the phyllo dough from the freezer and place in the refrigerator to defrost.7. Preheat the oven to 175 degrees Celsius, heat the butter in a pan, take out one sheet of phyllo dough and lightly brush the top of the phyllo. Fold in half. Then brush the top with butter and fold in half. Place one cold custard in the center and fold up the sides to form a purse. Use kitchen string to secure.

8. Repeat the process for each of the custards and place them on a cookie tray. Bake in the oven until the tops of phyllo are slightly brown, approximately 10-15 minutes, depending on your oven.

9. Let the phyllo purses cool and heat several caramel candies in a pan, on low heat. Add equal parts milk and continue to stir until it forms a sauce. Add the pistachio nuts.

10. Garnish with the caramel and nuts.

I know, it’s a labor-intensive recipe, but if you break it up into two days, it’s not so bad. I actually had fun making these little treats, but loved eating them even more! They’re particularly good they next day, served cold without the caramel–think light, yet crunchy pumpkin pie. Yum!

Thank you, Epermarket for choosing me as one of your bloggers. Too bad you didn’t get to taste the final product!

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When I was little, my favorite movie was “Big Bird Goes to China.” I must have watched it several dozen times, because I can still recite a song the giant yellow bird sings about learning Chinese. Serious props to my parents for dealing with that.

I loved the movie not only because of my obsession with Sesame Street, but because of the curiosity it evoked. Everything seemed so foreign, so different. I couldn’t believe that those landscapes, the buildings and the people belonged to the same planet where I lived. And, like most children, I dreamt about digging a tunnel and winding up on the Great Wall of China.

A few months ago (I know, I have sucked at posting), a friend from Travelers Society asked me to join him and a few others for a weekend camping trip on the Wall. High on my China Bucket List since I found out it was possible (only through groups like his), I of course said yes. 

After an overnight train ride from Shanghai to Beijing (which wasn’t that bad, actually), we headed for breakfast and to pay a quick visit to Mao at his mausoleum (a must-see and super weird). Then it was time to make our way to the wall (a 3-hour bus ride).

As you can see from the pictures above, we had quite a tough hike to get to our camping spot. Most tourists taking a day trip from Beijing will opt for the closer, more restored section of the Wall, called Badaling. This is the section I went to on my first trip to China, but I would not recommend it, as it’s extremely crowded and lacking authenticity. (There’s even a toboggan slide that runs from top to bottom!) Jiankou, on the other hand was wild–seemingly untouched in parts, crumbling from decay, and unimaginably beautiful.

When we got to our site, we were given tents and sleeping bags and a mat to cushion us from the rocky surface.  A bonfire was started, meat and vegetables were thrown on a grill, and we drank beers while watching the sun set over the mountains. As the sky turned pink, I looked around at the vastness of the wall. I looked down at my feet–at the structure of one of the great wonders of the world. My new friends and I talked about how lucky we were.

That night, after turning in and zipping up our tents, the wind picked up. The howling sounds circled around me and poked and pulled at the fabric. With the wind came cold, despite being summer, and I folded myself into a child-like position, hugging my knees, rocking back and forth, waiting for the sun to rise.

Before dawn, I emerged from my tent and crawled on top of one of the lookout points. I was the only one awake, and I took the time to listen to the silence–to enjoy the vastness that seemed to be reserved only for me.

When the sun peeked over the mountains and its beams bathed the ancient wall, tents began to rustle, and soon everyone was gaping over our majestic surroundings.

We spent the next few hours making toast and coffee,  taking silly pictures and sharing stories from our windy nights. When it was time to go, I looked back at our campsite–at our little part of the Great Wall–and smiled. That was a pretty good trip.

For more information, visit www.travelers-society.com, or ask a question in the comments section!

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Winter has arrived in Shanghai, and even while I’m typing this (indoors), I’m wearing a scarf and fuzzy slippers. So naturally, I’m thinking of warmer places and warmer times, like this summer. For six weeks, Luke and I traveled around Croatia, Italy and Slovenia, eating pizza, lots of gelato, and kicking back in the beautiful nature that surrounded us.

We started our adventure in Croatia, deciding to cruise around the islands with Sail Croatia. I was actually hesitant to do something like this, as I hate organized group tours. Also, I had read reviews online about 30 and 40-somethings having to deal with all night parties and waking up to piles of puke outside their cabin doors.

Luckily, this was not our experience. We chose the company’s 7-day Explorer Cruise, geared toward “young professionals,” and found ourselves on a well-maintained yacht, full of fun people our age, looking to explore the islands and have a bit of fun in the evenings. We cruised from Split to Dubrovnik for one week, and took some time to bus around the countryside, stopping in Zagreb and Plitvice Lakes. 

Croatia was amazing, but instead of going into all the details, I’m posting a video for the first time. Luke put it together with some of the footage captured by the GoPro, and learned a lot in the process. Stay tuned for a video from Italy and one I’m putting together about our time in Shanghai! (Note: VPN required to watch in China.)

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I like blaming my 30’s for a lot of things: the fine lines appearing under my eyes, the two-day hangovers, and the inability to lose weight the way I did in my 20’s.  And while I don’t have too much control over the first problem (let’s be honest, eye cream is just overpriced moisturizer), I can drink less (well, sometimes) and I can definitely make healthier eating choices during the holidays.

The idea of cookie exchanges has made its way to Shanghai, and so has Thanksgiving. For my day job, I’ve had to write listicles about turkey delivery services and where to go for the best cup of hot chocolate in the city. I’m also a food critic on the side, and it’s literally my job to eat fattening food. So I cut corners when I can.

Epermarket, one of Shanghai’s online grocers, asked me to participate in a “Christmas Cookie Challenge,” highlighting some of the products they sell (as an expat, it is often a challenge to find things like chocolate chips or vanilla extract). And after successfully (albeit surprisingly) creating a pumpkin tart for their “Halloween Battle,” I gladly accepted. But I told them right off the bat that I would only be making something healthy–something that could possibly pass for breakfast in a pinch.

Enter Dark Chocolate-Dipped Cranberry Oat Cookies. Gluten free (if you care about that sort of thing), free of processed sugars, and seriously delicious. If I didn’t make them myself, I would swear someone was trying to knock me off my healthy cookie wagon. Make them, bring them to your cookie exchanges so you have a healthy option, and even sneak one or two for breakfast–cause, hey, they have oats and bananas in them!

Dark Chocolate-Dipped Cranberry Oat Cookies

(Recipe adapted from the Minimalist Baker)

Makes 16 cookies. Prep time: 15 minutes/Cook time: 15 minutes

 Ingredients

• 2 ripe bananas
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 cup natural peanut butter
• 2 Tbsp melted coconut oil
• 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
• 3 Tbsp maple syrup
• 1 1/2 cup gluten free rolled oats
• 1/2 cup oat flour (just ground the oats)
• 1/2 cup almond meal (ground from raw almonds)
• 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp baking soda
• 3  Tbsp pecans, lightly crushed
•  1/2 cup dried cranberries (preferably unsweetened)
• 1/2 cup dark chocolate chips (I prefer 60%)

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit/177 Celsius
2. In a blender or food processor, blend the eggs until liquid.
3. In a large bowl, mix bananas, eggs, peanut butter, coconut oil, vanilla and maple syrup.
4. In a blender or food processor, blend 1/2 cup of oats, then combine.
5. In the same blender or food processor, pulse 1/2 cup of almonds until they reach a flour consistency (make sure to pulse lightly, or else you’ll get almond butter). Add to the mixture.
6. Add the baking powder, baking soda, pecans and cranberries and mix well.
7. Lightly grease two baking sheets with coconut oil or butter and form palm-sized cookies–they don’t expand.  Make sure they are all the same size to ensure even baking.
8. Bake for 15 minutes, or until the cookies are slightly golden brown.
9. Let the cookies rest on the baking sheets and put the chocolate chips into a saucepan, over low heat. Make sure the flame is very low, otherwise the chocolate will seize up. Stir constantly until it is smooth liquid, then turn off the heat. Dip each cookie into  the chocolate, covering half of the cookie.
10. Place the chocolate-covered cookies on a tray and cover them. Leave them to set before eating (trust me, they’re better that way).

 Enjoy, and Happy Holidays!

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Who does a “year in review” post in the middle of February? Apparently I do. And I’m not going to apologize for it, because one of my New Year’s resolutions is to stop feeling so guilty for things I shouldn’t feel guilty about. Plus, this is my blog and I can do what I want.

2016 was a crazy year, end of story. Future generations will look back on 2016 and think, Geez, I’m so glad I didn’t live through that year! (Ok, they probably won’t say the word “geez.” In fact, I’m not even sure why I’m saying it now, in 2017.)

In fact, I recently wrote a story about Chinese New Year, and the new Year of the Rooster. I interviewed various Traditional Chinese Medicine practitioners to find out what the lunar calendar predicts for the coming year. They basically told me that each year coincides with one of the 12 zodiac animals, as well as an element (rotating between metal, wood, earth, water or fire every two years).  People will plan wedding and births around which animal and element align on which year, as it’s said that the baby will inherit traits of both the animal and element.

Well, 2016 was a fire-monkey year; and according to one of the doctors I spoke to, “everyone born that year will be crazy in one way or another.” In our interview he asked me, “What do monkeys do? They throw their shit everywhere. Add fire to that, and you’ve got yourself a real shit storm.” It was a fun conversation.

However, I have to admit that while 2016 was a bad year for many, it was one of the best years of my life. (I actually feel guilty about it, but I’m trying to suppress it for the greater good of following though with my resolutions.) Here’s what happened:

In January, I cut off my hair and donated it to charity.

Thirteen inches, people. Thirteen. That’s over a foot. I have to say, I have always been very attached to my long locks, but there was something freeing about the experience–and rewarding.  Now a little girl suffering from alopecia has a wig that makes her feel confident. And in turn, I gained confidence, because I learned I didn’t need my long hair to feel beautiful.

In February, I checked out the Harbin Ice Festival.

One of the coolest (and coldest!) experiences I’ve had thus far. Every year (Dec-Feb), the city in the far north of China (near Russia) holds one of the world’s largest ice festivals, made up of three snow and ice sculpture parks. It’s awesome and the food is insane. Read my post on Harbin to get some recommendations.

In April, I got to check Bali off my bucket list.

I had been wanting to go to Bali for so long that I actually thought I’d be disappointed. I wasn’t. Beautiful landscapes, delicious food, and the most hospitable people on the planet–it was everything I wanted it to be. Read my post about Bali to see more pictures and get tips on where and what to eat.

 In May, I got a chance to camp on the Great Wall of China.

That’s right–camping, on the Great Wall of China. Now if that’s not bucket list worthy, I don’t know what is. I would recommend this trip to anyone (well, anyone who likes camping and is okay with sleeping on the hard ground with a pretty fierce wind whipping at your tent all night). Read my article about camping on the Great Wall to get all the necessary details if you’re interested in planning the trip.

During the summer, Luke and I traveled around Croatia, Italy and Slovenia for six weeks.

Talk about a romantic time. This trip is actually what sealed the deal for me (meaning, I knew I could spend my life with this guy, as we didn’t fight once in the entire six weeks…That’s romance, people!). We cruised around the Croatian islands for a week with Sail Croatia, hiked along the Amalfi coast in Italy, ate all the pizza, all the pasta and all the gelato, and were wonderfully surprised with the fairy tale country of Slovenia. We continue to talk about it as the best time we’ve ever had.

In September, I traveled to Australia to meet Luke’s entire family.

This trip made me think back to how easy life once was… you date someone for a month or two, you like them, you invite them home to have dinner with your family. Afterwards, they say their goodbyes, and then the boyfriend drives home–20-30 minutes, give-or-take. This, my dear readers, was nothing like this.

One week, two overnight flights, two connecting flights, countless friends and relatives (the man has almost 100 cousins!), a drive up and down the eastern coast, a visit to his hometown, meeting the sisters, and the finale: his mum’s wedding. Needless to say, it was exhausting. But I wouldn’t have traded it for a quiet dinner at home any day.

In October, we got engaged!

Clearly, the trip home went well. And, that sneaky bastard had his sister buy the ring while we were out shopping. He took me to Fuxing Park, hired a guitarist to play some of our favorite songs, and got down on one knee. Pretty good, huh?

In November, we did a weekend visa run in Taipei and ate all the food.

Since I’m on a tourist visa now (I pressed pause on teaching and have been working as a full-time editor), I have to leave Mainland China every 60 days. I usually opt for Hong Kong since it’s cheap and quick, but we decided to take a day off of work and spend a long weekend exploring and eating street food. I fully plan to write a long, food porny post about it, so get ready for that.

In December, Luke came home with me and met all my family and friends. Oh, and we eloped.

We fully planned to have a “real” wedding. I wanted to wear a white dress and have all our friends and family together. But the fact is, Luke’s from Australia and I’m from Florida–our homes are pretty much as far as you can get from one another. Plus, I’m 34 and can’t be bothered. We’ll get the fams together eventually; and in the meantime, I’ll keep my eye out for a pretty dress.

What’s in store for 2017?

Luke and I are heading to North Korea to run the marathon in April (let’s be honest, I’m doing a 10k), we’re moving to Bucharest in July, and are planning to do some traveling around China before that. After summer, who knows; but it’s looking good. 

What are your plans for this year? I hope whatever they are, they make you happy. Happy Chinese New Year, everyone.

The post A Look Back at 2016 appeared first on Adventurous Appetite.

Why the hell would anyone want to go to North Korea? This is a question my parents posed, and even my students, as I told them my husband and I were heading to its capital to participate in the annual marathon.

The short answer: curiosity. While living in Seoul, I had the opportunity to listen to stories from several North Korean refugees. How they escaped through China, how they left behind loved ones, and how they lived in a constant state of fear. I remember feeling completely ignorant, as I knew nothing about the country other than the fact they harbored nuclear warheads.

Not that visiting North Korea, or the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), shed much light on the matter. All tour groups (there’s two big ones, Young Pioneers and Koryo) work with the government, are required to follow a certain itinerary and use designated North Korean tour guides. In essence, we saw what the government wanted us to see.

Still, it was fascinating, and I count myself lucky that I was able to go (and leave) before tensions really started rising (I was there in April).

Here’s a look our 3-day tour of Pyongyang, the nation’s capital:

Day 1: Arrival, DMZ, and a lot of looking out the bus window.

Before departing Shanghai, we were briefed on our trip and reminded of the rules:

• No religious paraphernalia.
• No Western literature or films about North Korea.
• Do not take photos of military personnel.
• Do not mock or mimic statues.
• If you take a photo of a statue, the entire statue must be in the frame.
• You are to respect the supreme leaders and refer to Kim Il Sung as President (which he is called for eternity), Kim Jong Il as General (again, he’s the forever general) and Kim Jong Un as Marshall.
• You are not allowed to use the local currency (EUR, USD and CNY are ok) and cannot leave the country with local money.
• Your phone will be temporarily confiscated at the border. You will get it back, but you will not have access to Internet for the duration of your stay.
• You may not leave the group or the hotel at any time.

After arriving  in the early morning hours to the small, quiet airport, we quickly dropped off our things at the hotel and headed to the DMZ, or Demilitarized Zone.

The 2.5 hour drive there was captivating. For 160 km, all we saw were expansive rice fields and the farmers tending to them. Workers appeared as ants against the vast landscape, walking in twos or pedaling bicycles to get to where they were going.

Our visit at the actual “tourist attraction” was met with much less fanfare than in South Korea. No soldiers glaring at one another, no talk of underground tunnels–just a look at the demarcation line and the Military Armistice Commission Conference Room for a bit of a history lesson. One of the guards even posed for pictures.

The rest of the afternoon was spent viewing historical objects and porcelain from the Koryo Dynasty at Kaesong Koryo Museum, buying stamps at Kaesong Korean Stamp Exhibition Hall (I opted to take a nap on the bus instead), and eating a traditional royal Korean lunch.

On the way back to town, we stopped to take pictures at the Arch of Reunification, a big stone symbol of hope that the North and South will one day make peace.

Notice how few cars are on the road. All citizens, with the exception of a few high-level government officials, rely on public transport. Images of women walking hand-in-hand wearing traditional dress and men biking in a straight line made me think of Lois Lowry’s The Giver. 

Day 2: Pyongyang City Tour

Pyongyang is surprisingly beautiful. With its colorful, Soviet style architecture,  lack of advertising, and polished statues of the supreme leaders looming large, it could easily be the backdrop for a post apocalyptic sci-fi film. Here are some sights from around town:

Mansudae Fountain Park: A place our tour guide described as “the best place to take a girl on a romantic date.” When I asked if her boyfriend had taken her there, and she covered her mouth and laughed. I think that’s a yes.

Mansudae Grand Monument:  Perched on top of a hill, overlooking downtown Pyongyang, stands two enormous bronze statues of President Kim Il Sung and General Kim Jong Il. North Koreans lined up to present flowers and bow–treating them like deities. It is expected for foreigners to do the same.

Kim Il Sung Square: The image you’ve seen over and over again on CNN, as it serves as a gathering place for rallies, dances and military parades. Here, soldiers practice marching in unison in order to properly celebrate President Kim Il Sung’s birthday, which was a couple short weeks away.

Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum : An opportunity to learn about the Korean War from the North’s point of view (i.e. why it was America’s fault). The museum features photos, documents, dioramas and captured US military equipment, including the USS Pueblo.

Pyongyang Metro: The deepest subway system in the world at 110 meters, it conveniently doubles as a nuclear bunker, just in case. Each station on the tourist trail artfully depicts North Korea’s revolutionary goals and achievements to impressionable commuters. It’s beautiful, other worldly and, yes, functional.

Foreign Languages Bookshop : Shelves upon shelves stocked with propaganda. This store sells Korean publications translated into English, German, French, Russian, Chinese, and Spanish, so that almost anyone can read about why Kim Jong Il was so great.

The Party Foundation Monument at the Tower of Juche Idea: Located on the Taedong River, the statue celebrating the Worker’s Party of Korea stands tall, celebrating the country’s workers, farmers and intellectuals. It also makes for quite a nice view at sunset.

Day 3: The Marathon

I’m not a runner. In fact, I didn’t even train for the run, convinced I would just walk the 10k while Luke ran the half. But once we walked into that stadium, packed with locals dressed in suits and gowns, clapping in unison, adrenaline took over. I ended up running the entire race–convinced by the fanfare that I was actually an athlete who’d been flown into the country to compete with their runners–people who train six days a week. Needless to say, I had to call out of work the next day and lost a toenail.

The course starts and ends in Kim Il Sung stadium and weaves through the city center. Locals line the streets with outstretched hands, high-fiving you as you run past. Little kids yell “Hello!” and the elderly, “Pali! Pali! (Go, Go!).” They smile, and it appears they’re happy. Then again, it also seems like it’s a mandatory event, since everyone is either in the arena or on the street, cheering in their Sunday best.

And, that’s my point. A beautiful, strange experience that I will never forget; but it’s been three months since I left the DPRK and still don’t know what to make of it.

The post Inside North Korea: Running the Pyongyang Marathon appeared first on Adventurous Appetite.

Today I received a Facebook message from my friend Austin, who paid me the best compliment: “You’ve inspired me to move abroad.”

He’s heading to Costa Rica, with plans of running an online business, while learning Spanish, hitting some waves, and hopefully meeting a girl. In his words, he’s searching for “pura vida,” or “pure life.”

His message reminded me of something I wrote myself eight years ago, just before moving to South Korea. I was full of excitement and optimism and would spend hours scrolling though images of temples,  reading about weekend trips from Seoul, and daydreaming about what my life would be like. I emailed everyone I knew who had spent time abroad to hear their stories.

But Austin included something in his note that I wish I had: he asked for advice, for insight. I thought about what I was going to say for awhile, and figured I’d share my reply with all of you. So, here goes:

1. You will go through various stages of culture shock.

It doesn’t necessarily matter if you’ve been to your new home before, or even if the culture isn’t that different from what you’re used to. Generally, during the first few weeks or even months, you’ll be in the “honeymoon phase.” Everything’s new, exciting, you’re meeting new people, eating new food, and thrilled about your decision to move.

Then, at some point, you’ll come down from the initial high and become frustrated. Maybe it’s the language barrier, the traffic. Maybe the health care procedures are different. The smallest thing can get under your skin and make you question your decision to move abroad.

After this, comes the adjustment stage, where hopefully things start getting easier. You accept that things aren’t as easy, or that you won’t be able to eat your favorite cereal anymore. You’ll make an effort to learn the language.

Finally, you reach acceptance. For some people, they can reach the final stage after a few months; others, a year or more. It’s important to be patient with yourself and understand that everyone goes through it.

2. Things will inevitably be different than you thought they’d be.

When I moved to Colombia, I envisioned myself dancing salsa every night of the week. I would wear a red, floral skirt that twirled beautifully when I danced, and my partner would be a tall, brooding man with slicked-back hair.

The truth is, the schools start at 7am because of the traffic (or hot weather in other parts of the country), so I was too tired to go out during the week. Most of the men I met were my height or shorter, and the cold Bogota nights rarely allowed for flimsy skirts. I mostly wore jeans. This is not to say that I didn’t have a great time in Colombia, because I did. But because of my expectations, it took me awhile to reach the acceptance phase.

3. You’ll make new friends fast, and they’ll quickly become family.

When you’re an expat, you automatically have something in common with all the other expats: you’re all living away from home, away from family. Because of this, you’ll bond with these people quicker than you thought possible. I’ve held a friend’s hand at the hospital before surgery, only one month after meeting her. I was her emergency contact and didn’t think twice about it. I’ve shared Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners with people I’d met a few days before the holidays, and attended marriage ceremonies for friends who had met earlier that same year. Things move quickly and differently than they do back home, and it’s wonderful.

4. The friends you made will leave, and new friends will take their place. It’s a constant cycle.

The same friends who’ll become family one year are likely to leave the next–or at least in a few years’ time. This, unfortunately, is an expat’s reality. We are nomads by nature. We get new opportunities and leap without thinking. But, we’re also great at keeping in touch, and picking right back up where we left off, years later, over cold beers at a reggae bar in Bali.

5. You will change.

This is an undeniable truth. Travel changes you. You will see things that will change the way you think, you will learn new languages and new customs that will expand your mind. You will learn patience and adaptability. Don’t fight it.

6. When you go back home to visit, it will feel different.

There’s something called “reverse culture shock” and it’s real. When I moved back to Florida after two years in Asia, I had a really hard time adjusting. I felt like no one wanted to hear my stories–that I talked too much about my travels. I didn’t feel challenged. I missed the new friends I had made, and felt like my old friends didn’t have as much in common with me as I previously thought. It took a few months (the same as regular culture shock), but I adjusted. And now, when I go home to visit, I treasure the time spent with my childhood friends–catching up on stories and meeting their expanding families. Change is the one constant. Accept it and you’ll find happiness.

7. You’ll miss important things back home.

This is something I still struggle with. One of my best friends is getting married in the spring–two weeks before I have a break. I spent so much time looking at flights, figuring out how to ask that time off from work, factoring in jet lag and travel time, and finally came to the conclusion that I couldn’t make it work. My friend understands, of course, but it’s disappointing. And when her pictures come out on Facebook, I’ll probably cry. This is just part of life.

8. You’ll experience things you never thought you would.

I’ve camped on the Great Wall of China, hiked a glacier in Patagonia, dove the Great Barrier Reef, learned how to dance Tango in Buenos Aires. I’ve studied Mandarin Chinese and spent two days of silence in a temple. I married an Australian man whom I met in Shanghai. These are things that would never have happened if I hadn’t moved abroad. These are things I made happen by taking that leap.

9. At some point you will question why you did this.

One day, when you’re homesick, you’ll be scrolling on Facebook or Instagram. You’ll see pictures of your friends’ babies and how fast they’re growing. You’ll see pictures of weddings, of graduations and holiday parties. You’ll question why you’re not having babies yourself and why you decided to marry someone from other side of the world, making a wedding impossible. You’ll become depressed and convince yourself that all of your friends have moved on and no longer want anything to do with you.

The next day, you’ll find an invite to a “family dinner” from your new friends on Whatsapp. You’ll scroll through the recent pictures on your phone and see a picture of you all smiling on the beach, an image of you waving from atop a mountain. You’ll remember that you are, indeed, happy, and that your friends back home still love you. Everyone has their own definition of happiness.

10. It’s not a vacation (all the time). Find a balance between work, travel and play.

As an international teacher, I admit that I have a lot of vacation time. And now that I’m in Europe, I’ve spent a couple long weekends in Rome and Budapest. Life is good, and travel opportunities abound. But this is only part of my reality. I work really, really hard, and I make an effort to maintain my friendships.

Sometimes it’s easy, especially at the beginning, to be blinded by the excitement of the move. Reality sets in and you may not spend as much time as you want at the beach, or maybe you don’t love your job. All the same problems from home can, and will, follow you at some point. This is just life.

But most of the time, after you settle into life as an expat, it’s exactly what my friend Austin is looking for: Pura Vida.

The post Insights on Living Abroad appeared first on Adventurous Appetite.

“Hot air ballooning in Cappadocia, Turkey” has long been at the top of my bucket list. I’d imagined gliding over the moon-like landscape at sunrise, taking in scenes of fairy chimneys and rose-colored valleys, then returning to my hotel room, built into the side of a cave.

It was a scene I had dreamt about so many times that when my husband and I booked the trip, I was scared the real thing wouldn’t live up to my enormous expectations. Spoiler alert: It did.

Here’s a look at our three days in Anatolian paradise, with some tips along the way.

Day 1: Wander the streets of Göreme & revel in the fact that you’re staying in a cave hotel.

First of all, I would recommend at least three days in Cappadocia, or even four or five if you have the time. Most tourists stay in the small village of Göreme, although we saw some pretty swanky cave hotels in neighboring Urgup.

Göreme Valley was inhabited as early as 1200 BC, and has a tumultuous history with a host of rival empires. The area’s soft, volcanic rock allowed locals to dig tunnels to create extensive underground networks, as well as cave churches and dwellings to hide from invaders. Lucky for us, most of the structures still stand today, and visitors can choose from a wide selection of cave hotels. We stayed at Aydinli Cave Hotel and I would 100% recommend it. Here are some pictures of our accommodation:

Luke and I stayed for three nights, but I honestly wish we had stayed another, just so we could take our time and really explore without being rushed. There’s a lot to see in the region!

Take your time and marvel at the town’s unique rock formations, stop in local restaurants for meze (small dishes), pick up a bottle of wine, and make your way to Sunset Point. 

Day 2: Take a hot air balloon ride, rest, then hike.

A lot of people choose not to book a hot air balloon because of the price. In my opinion, this is a mistake. There’s a big difference in how much companies charge, and it’s mostly due to reputation, how many people are allowed in the basket, and whether or not you get sparkling grape juice or champagne.

Our hotel recommended three companies: Butterfly Balloon (175€/1 hour), Turkiye Balloon (185€/1 hour) and Assiana (150€/1 hour). All of them offer a 10€ discount if you pay with cash and have more expensive/more luxurious options available. We went with the cheapest, Assiana, and found them to be professional and highly skilled. We were pretty crammed in that basket though!Soaring through the sky, overlooking Cappadocia’s lunar landscape was, for lack of a better word, magical. In my opinion, an hour was the perfect amount of time, and we were back to the hotel at 7:30, right when breakfast started.

After a quick rest, Luke and I were dropped off at Goreme Open Air Museum (although it’s only a 15-minute walk).  Here, you can explore a large collection of cave churches with original frescoes. Entrance is 25 TL per person (approx. 5€). I recommend going early, as the tour busses arrive between 10am-11am. We only spent an hour here, but I assume you could spend more if you were really into cave churches.

We spent the next few hours hiking through the Red Valley and Rose Valley. Make sure to get a walking map from your hotel or from the tourism kiosk in front of the Open Air Museum, head to “Camping” on the map, then follow the path to Panorama Cafe. I would suggest bringing it up on Google Maps on your phone, just in case.

For about an hour and a half we didn’t see another person. The walk was easy and the terrain is flat. Opportunities to climb into abandoned cave dwellings and churches are abundant. Make sure to pack water and snacks, as you’ll only see one “cafe” (i.e. pomegranate and orange juice stand) for the entire trip.

This was a long day, but totally worth it. If we hadn’t been so tired, we would’ve gotten a ride to Pasabag (AKA Valley of the Monks) to walk around and admire the fairy chimneys close-up. Instead, we headed back to town to grab an early dinner at Topdeck Cave Restaurant. The chef prepares four dishes each night and there’s a selection of meze. Do it.

Day 3: Check out an underground city and explore by foot, ATV or horseback (not by bus).

I am never one to join a tour, but Luke and I opted for the “Green Tour” (there’s a red, blue, and green) because there was just too much to see and everything was pretty spread out. It was fine, and we saw a lot of great sights (including the Derinkuyu Underground City and Ihlara Valley), but if we had to do it again, I would have gone to the closer Kaymakli Underground City and done some more hiking.

Here’s a look at what you see on the Green Tour:

Every Morning: Get up early, whether you want to or not, and watch the balloons fill the sky.

Additional Information & Tips:

• Flights are cheap and quick from Istanbul (we paid 40€ each, roundtrip through Pegasus).
• Book your hot air balloon well before you arrive (we booked ours two months in advance) and book it for the morning after you arrive. This way if it’s canceled (due to weather), they can reschedule you for the next day or the following.
• Every meal we had in Cappadocia was amazing. Just ask for local recommendations. I would especially recommend Topdeck Cave Restaurant, a place called Cappadocian Cuisine,  and Seten Anatolian Cuisine.
• I would recommend visiting the end of April through June and September through October. Balloons fly year-round, but not in windy or rainy conditions.
• Stay in a cave hotel. Like I said previously, Aydinli Cave Hotel was amazing. Great hospitality, views, location, and the price was right (we paid 72€ a night, including breakfast).

Have you been to Cappadocia? I’d love to hear what you’d recommend!

The post 3 Days in Cappadocia, Turkey: A Suggested Itinerary appeared first on Adventurous Appetite.

Before I moved to Romania, I had never heard of Veliko Târnovo. And to be honest, I probably wouldn’t have  been able to point to Bulgaria on a map.

Even though Eastern Europe is quickly becoming a popular tourist destination, Bulgaria (and Romania) is often skipped over, in favor of Hungary or the Czech Republic. I’m personally pretty happy about this fact, as it means my husband and I get to explore abandoned castles and fortified churches without waiting in lines, and are able to have picturesque medieval cities like Veliko Târnovo pretty much to ourselves.

Since Veliko is only a 3-hour drive from Bucharest, Luke and I just went for the weekend, staying Saturday night and coming back Sunday. It was enough time to soak in some of the town’s history and charm, but I would’ve liked another day or two. We’ll be back.

In the meantime, here’s a look at what we did, where we stayed and, of course, where we ate.

What We Did:

1. Walked around the city

The first thing I always do in a new place is walk around.  Veliko Târnovo’s historical downtown is relatively small and very pedestrian friendly. Full of artistic graffiti, quirky statues, and cobblestone streets, there’s enough to see for an enjoyable 3-4 hour stroll. (And yes, we brought our dog with us. He now has four stamps in his doggie passport!)

2. Explored Tsarevets Fortress

Visiting castles and fortresses in Eastern Europe quickly becomes like visiting churches in Western Europe or temples in Asia. However, Tsarevets Fortress was worth the time and money (only 6 Bulgarian Lev, or $3.50 USD).  Dating back to the 12th century, this citadel served to protect the  Bulgarian tsars who ruled during the Second Bulgarian Empire. Wear comfortable shoes and plan to spend 1-2 hours walking around.

3. Visited Asenevtsi Monument

 Where We Stayed:

Luke and I stayed at the Rooster Hostel in the historic part of Veliko Târnovo. It’s not a hostel as the name suggests, but more of a guest house with the option to stay in a cheaper 4-bed dormitory. The owner was lovely and very helpful with offering maps, history and dining suggestions.

How much we paid: $25 USD per night for a double room with a shared bathroom. We used booking.com.

How much we liked it: As you can see from the pictures, the place was cute and clean, and the owner is a complete gem. Just know that if you’re staying on the ground floor (like we did), you’ll hear people talking in the common room until lights out at around 11pm. If you’re a light sleeper, pack a pair of ear plugs and an eye mask.

Where We Ate:

Malkiq Inter (above) is a local haunt owned by our hostel owner’s girlfriend’s parents (it’s a small town). The restaurant/bar looked like an eclectic antique store, with a few cats roaming around for good measure. Great music, beer, and awesome chicken served in a clay pot. Oh, and the bill came to less than $20USD for the both of us.

Restaurant Shtasliveca (above; Veliko Tarnovo Old Town location) is, in my opinion (and TripAdvisor’s), the best restaurant in the city. In fact, I would drive to Veliko just to eat there again.

I have no food pictures of this place because it was dark; and honestly, the food was so good that I couldn’t wait to dig in. The menu is seasonal, but when we were there, we ordered a cheese-stuffed sweet pepper appetizer, a cheesy pumpkin dish, chicken and local vegetables served on a “lava plate,” a special biscuit cake for dessert, and a fantastic bottle of local wine for just under $50USD (including the standard 10% tip). Seriously, I can’t even write any more without drooling all over my keyboard. Just go.

What I wish we did:

For some reason we weren’t able to catch this when we were in Veliko, but the city’s Sound and Light Show is something I definitely want to see next time we’re in town. Apparently most every night around 8-9:30, flashes of colored lights bathe Veliko Târnovo’s skyline to the sound of choral music. Sometimes it’s free, sometimes it costs around $10USD. For more information, visit https://www.soundandlight.bg/en/.

Have you been to Veliko Târnovo, or anywhere else in Bulgaria? Luke and I plan to visit Plovdiv and Sofia later this year and would love suggestions. Comment below if you have any!

The post A Weekend in Veliko Târnovo appeared first on Adventurous Appetite.

Almost two weeks ago, Anthony Bourdain took his life, and the news has formed deep wounds within the international community.

“He was our guide, our teacher,” says longtime expat Erin Connolly. “International teachers live uniquely transient lives; it was comforting to know that we could always turn to Anthony Bourdain to give us insight into the strange new places we were diving into.”

Connolly and her husband, Chris Powers, moved from Beijing to Romania two years ago, where they currently work at the American International School of Bucharest (AISB). “Anthony Bourdain was the person we turned to every time we visited [or moved to] a new country,” says Connolly. “Book a trip, watch Bourdain. He showed me not only how and where to eat, but how to be a thoughtful, sensitive, and productive traveler.”

Bourdain got his start by writing nonfiction bestseller, Kitchen Confidential, where he detailed, explicitly, the dark side of the restaurant industry, revealing his own demons and drug addictions while working as a chef. Critics and foodies were quick to celebrate his sardonic wit and breezy storytelling ability, making him a natural choice to host The Travel Channel’s series, “No Reservations.”

He picked up several Emmy nominations for his writing efforts while at The Travel Channel, then moved on to host American news network CNN’s “Parts Unknown,” where he treated viewers  to unique food, seasoned with a fascinating helping of politics, history and culture. He was filming the 11th season of the series when Bourdain’s best friend and celebrated chef, Eric Ripert, found him, unresponsive, in France the morning of June 8th. He was 61.

Selina Parnell, an English teacher at AISB, says that his death has “shaken our community.” She explains that “International school teachers tend to fill their lives with two main hobbies: eating and traveling. Bourdain taught us to do both.”

Indeed, Bourdain essentially rewrote the rules for traveling and eating. In Kitchen Confidential, he penned, “I’ve long believed that good food, good eating, is all about risk. Whether we’re talking about unpasteurized Stilton, raw oysters or working for organized crime ‘associates,’ food, for me, has always been an adventure.”

Connolly says that Bourdain not only made traveling and eating cool, but, “He taught me that food and culture are inextricably linked. He taught me that to know a culture or country or a community, you must share a meal with locals, or at least make an effort to. Without his guidance, I would not be as willing to take risks when traveling, to talk to locals, to try strange dishes, or to visit the hole-in-the-wall restaurants. He showed me that sometimes the tiniest, most run-down, hidden eateries are the best ones, and that the older the cook, the better the food.”

Connolly and Powers are part of a large subset of teachers at AISB, who identify themselves as foodies. In fact, Powers and Selina Parnell’s husband, Bryan, started a yearly tradition at the school, where a group of teachers travel to a farm in the country to slaughter their own pig. They’ve learned how to make use of all the meat and even hold sausage competitions to pay homage to Bourdain’s favorite culinary treasure: “meat in tube form.”

These musings have been the main thread of conversation among teachers at AISB the last two weeks, with stories of close encounters and “Bourdain restaurant check-off lists” crowding the narrative.News of Bourdain’s apparent suicide hit the group hard, but like most of the international community, they’re trying to focus on all the joy he brought the world, despite the pain he must have been going through off-camera. “Selina and I used to dream about meeting Bourdain in the airport,” says Bryan Parnell. “We’d spend hours talking about what we’d do or say when we finally met him in the immigration line.”

Longtime expat Kirk McDavitt was at a Vipassana Meditation retreat when news outlets confirmed Bourdain’s death. His wife, Gitane Reveilleau, worried how he’d handle the passing of his idol, after ten days of silence and introspection. He was in tears when he found out what happened.

“I first learned of Anthony Bourdain when I was a baker and my boss lent me his copy of Kitchen Confidential,” McDavitt remembers. “He insisted I would love it, and I did. The brash tone and unapologetic nature of Bourdain’s delivery struck a chord. I saw him as the Keith Richards of the culinary world—edgy, with an axe to grind and an ability to cut through anything fake. Add to that his tendency to self deprecate and I was hooked on his personality and his opinions.”

Five years after reading Kitchen Confidential, McDavitt set off for Japan, inspired by Bourdain to see (and eat) the world. A few years after that, he met his wife (Reveilleau) at a school in Brazil.  Reveilleau grew up poor, in a town where not many people get the opportunity to leave. She fell for McDavitt quickly. He was foreign, exciting. And much like Bourdain did for him, McDavitt opened a window into a world Reveilleau didn’t know existed.

Their first international teaching post was in Bangkok. “I had never thought about Thailand before finding out we were moving there,” she says. “Everything about it was brand new to me. [Before we moved] Bourdain enticed me for the first time in my recollection, to leave the flavors and smells of my beloved home behind so we could start our sensory adventure through the unknown.”

You could ask hundreds of expats why they moved abroad, and it’s likely that more than half would cite Bourdain in some way. As soon-to-be-retired AISB teacher David Robbins says, “I saw him as one of us. He advocated seeing the world and getting to know its people, and championed the attitudes and virtues of trust and tolerance—ideas so desperately needed in our world today.” Robbins taught in Kenya for 22 years before coming to Bucharest, with stints in Honduras, New Delhi and Taipei before that. He’ll soon return home to the States, for the first time in a long time. The end of a chapter.

In an episode of “No Reservations,” Bourdain said that “travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you.”

International teachers bear scars on our calves from motorcycle exhaust burns in Southeast Asia; we compare stories of what it was like to have malaria in Africa; some share stories about how they met their significant others while abroad. We commiserate over missing weddings and funerals, but relish in the excitement that only comes from traveling somewhere new. There are few people outside our strange little community that understand this, but Bourdain was one of them.

He said that, “[Travel] leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”

*If you are suffering from depression or are having suicidal thoughts, contact the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline at 1-800-273-8255

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Winter has arrived in Shanghai, and even while I’m typing this (indoors), I’m wearing a scarf and fuzzy slippers. So naturally, I’m thinking of warmer places and warmer times, like this summer. For six weeks, Luke and I traveled around Croatia, Italy and Slovenia, eating pizza, lots of gelato, and kicking back in the beautiful nature that surrounded us.

We started our adventure in Croatia, deciding to cruise around the islands with Sail Croatia. I was actually hesitant to do something like this, as I hate organized group tours. Also, I had read reviews online about 30 and 40-somethings having to deal with all night parties and waking up to piles of puke outside their cabin doors.

Luckily, this was not our experience. We chose the company’s 7-day Explorer Cruise, geared toward “young professionals,” and found ourselves on a well-maintained yacht, full of fun people our age, looking to explore the islands and have a bit of fun in the evenings. We cruised from Split to Dubrovnik for one week, and took some time to bus around the countryside, stopping in Zagreb and Plitvice Lakes. 

Croatia was amazing, but instead of going into all the details, I’m posting a video for the first time. Luke put it together with some of the footage captured by the GoPro, and learned a lot in the process. Stay tuned for a video from Italy and one I’m putting together about our time in Shanghai! (Note: VPN required to watch in China.)

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I like blaming my 30’s for a lot of things: the fine lines appearing under my eyes, the two-day hangovers, and the inability to lose weight the way I did in my 20’s.  And while I don’t have too much control over the first problem (let’s be honest, eye cream is just overpriced moisturizer), I can drink less (well, sometimes) and I can definitely make healthier eating choices during the holidays.

The idea of cookie exchanges has made its way to Shanghai, and so has Thanksgiving. For my day job, I’ve had to write listicles about turkey delivery services and where to go for the best cup of hot chocolate in the city. I’m also a food critic on the side, and it’s literally my job to eat fattening food. So I cut corners when I can.

Epermarket, one of Shanghai’s online grocers, asked me to participate in a “Christmas Cookie Challenge,” highlighting some of the products they sell (as an expat, it is often a challenge to find things like chocolate chips or vanilla extract). And after successfully (albeit surprisingly) creating a pumpkin tart for their “Halloween Battle,” I gladly accepted. But I told them right off the bat that I would only be making something healthy–something that could possibly pass for breakfast in a pinch.

Enter Dark Chocolate-Dipped Cranberry Oat Cookies. Gluten free (if you care about that sort of thing), free of processed sugars, and seriously delicious. If I didn’t make them myself, I would swear someone was trying to knock me off my healthy cookie wagon. Make them, bring them to your cookie exchanges so you have a healthy option, and even sneak one or two for breakfast–cause, hey, they have oats and bananas in them!

Dark Chocolate-Dipped Cranberry Oat Cookies

(Recipe adapted from the Minimalist Baker)

Makes 16 cookies. Prep time: 15 minutes/Cook time: 15 minutes

 Ingredients

• 2 ripe bananas
• 2 eggs
• 1/2 cup natural peanut butter
• 2 Tbsp melted coconut oil
• 1 tsp pure vanilla extract
• 3 Tbsp maple syrup
• 1 1/2 cup gluten free rolled oats
• 1/2 cup oat flour (just ground the oats)
• 1/2 cup almond meal (ground from raw almonds)
• 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1/2 tsp baking soda
• 3  Tbsp pecans, lightly crushed
•  1/2 cup dried cranberries (preferably unsweetened)
• 1/2 cup dark chocolate chips (I prefer 60%)

Instructions

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit/177 Celsius
2. In a blender or food processor, blend the eggs until liquid.
3. In a large bowl, mix bananas, eggs, peanut butter, coconut oil, vanilla and maple syrup.
4. In a blender or food processor, blend 1/2 cup of oats, then combine.
5. In the same blender or food processor, pulse 1/2 cup of almonds until they reach a flour consistency (make sure to pulse lightly, or else you’ll get almond butter). Add to the mixture.
6. Add the baking powder, baking soda, pecans and cranberries and mix well.
7. Lightly grease two baking sheets with coconut oil or butter and form palm-sized cookies–they don’t expand.  Make sure they are all the same size to ensure even baking.
8. Bake for 15 minutes, or until the cookies are slightly golden brown.
9. Let the cookies rest on the baking sheets and put the chocolate chips into a saucepan, over low heat. Make sure the flame is very low, otherwise the chocolate will seize up. Stir constantly until it is smooth liquid, then turn off the heat. Dip each cookie into  the chocolate, covering half of the cookie.
10. Place the chocolate-covered cookies on a tray and cover them. Leave them to set before eating (trust me, they’re better that way).

 Enjoy, and Happy Holidays!

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Who does a “year in review” post in the middle of February? Apparently I do. And I’m not going to apologize for it, because one of my New Year’s resolutions is to stop feeling so guilty for things I shouldn’t feel guilty about. Plus, this is my blog and I can do what I want.

2016 was a crazy year, end of story. Future generations will look back on 2016 and think, Geez, I’m so glad I didn’t live through that year! (Ok, they probably won’t say the word “geez.” In fact, I’m not even sure why I’m saying it now, in 2017.)

In fact, I recently wrote a story about Chinese New Year, and the new Year of the Rooster. I interviewed various Traditional Chinese Medicine practitioners to find out what the lunar calendar predicts for the coming year. They basically told me that each year coincides with one of the 12 zodiac animals, as well as an element (rotating between metal, wood, earth, water or fire every two years).  People will plan wedding and births around which animal and element align on which year, as it’s said that the baby will inherit traits of both the animal and element.

Well, 2016 was a fire-monkey year; and according to one of the doctors I spoke to, “everyone born that year will be crazy in one way or another.” In our interview he asked me, “What do monkeys do? They throw their shit everywhere. Add fire to that, and you’ve got yourself a real shit storm.” It was a fun conversation.

However, I have to admit that while 2016 was a bad year for many, it was one of the best years of my life. (I actually feel guilty about it, but I’m trying to suppress it for the greater good of following though with my resolutions.) Here’s what happened:

In January, I cut off my hair and donated it to charity.

Thirteen inches, people. Thirteen. That’s over a foot. I have to say, I have always been very attached to my long locks, but there was something freeing about the experience–and rewarding.  Now a little girl suffering from alopecia has a wig that makes her feel confident. And in turn, I gained confidence, because I learned I didn’t need my long hair to feel beautiful.

In February, I checked out the Harbin Ice Festival.

One of the coolest (and coldest!) experiences I’ve had thus far. Every year (Dec-Feb), the city in the far north of China (near Russia) holds one of the world’s largest ice festivals, made up of three snow and ice sculpture parks. It’s awesome and the food is insane. Read my post on Harbin to get some recommendations.

In April, I got to check Bali off my bucket list.

I had been wanting to go to Bali for so long that I actually thought I’d be disappointed. I wasn’t. Beautiful landscapes, delicious food, and the most hospitable people on the planet–it was everything I wanted it to be. Read my post about Bali to see more pictures and get tips on where and what to eat.

 In May, I got a chance to camp on the Great Wall of China.

That’s right–camping, on the Great Wall of China. Now if that’s not bucket list worthy, I don’t know what is. I would recommend this trip to anyone (well, anyone who likes camping and is okay with sleeping on the hard ground with a pretty fierce wind whipping at your tent all night). Read my article about camping on the Great Wall to get all the necessary details if you’re interested in planning the trip.

During the summer, Luke and I traveled around Croatia, Italy and Slovenia for six weeks.

Talk about a romantic time. This trip is actually what sealed the deal for me (meaning, I knew I could spend my life with this guy, as we didn’t fight once in the entire six weeks…That’s romance, people!). We cruised around the Croatian islands for a week with Sail Croatia, hiked along the Amalfi coast in Italy, ate all the pizza, all the pasta and all the gelato, and were wonderfully surprised with the fairy tale country of Slovenia. We continue to talk about it as the best time we’ve ever had.

In September, I traveled to Australia to meet Luke’s entire family.

This trip made me think back to how easy life once was… you date someone for a month or two, you like them, you invite them home to have dinner with your family. Afterwards, they say their goodbyes, and then the boyfriend drives home–20-30 minutes, give-or-take. This, my dear readers, was nothing like this.

One week, two overnight flights, two connecting flights, countless friends and relatives (the man has almost 100 cousins!), a drive up and down the eastern coast, a visit to his hometown, meeting the sisters, and the finale: his mum’s wedding. Needless to say, it was exhausting. But I wouldn’t have traded it for a quiet dinner at home any day.

In October, we got engaged!

Clearly, the trip home went well. And, that sneaky bastard had his sister buy the ring while we were out shopping. He took me to Fuxing Park, hired a guitarist to play some of our favorite songs, and got down on one knee. Pretty good, huh?

In November, we did a weekend visa run in Taipei and ate all the food.

Since I’m on a tourist visa now (I pressed pause on teaching and have been working as a full-time editor), I have to leave Mainland China every 60 days. I usually opt for Hong Kong since it’s cheap and quick, but we decided to take a day off of work and spend a long weekend exploring and eating street food. I fully plan to write a long, food porny post about it, so get ready for that.

In December, Luke came home with me and met all my family and friends. Oh, and we eloped.

We fully planned to have a “real” wedding. I wanted to wear a white dress and have all our friends and family together. But the fact is, Luke’s from Australia and I’m from Florida–our homes are pretty much as far as you can get from one another. Plus, I’m 34 and can’t be bothered. We’ll get the fams together eventually; and in the meantime, I’ll keep my eye out for a pretty dress.

What’s in store for 2017?

Luke and I are heading to North Korea to run the marathon in April (let’s be honest, I’m doing a 10k), we’re moving to Bucharest in July, and are planning to do some traveling around China before that. After summer, who knows; but it’s looking good. 

What are your plans for this year? I hope whatever they are, they make you happy. Happy Chinese New Year, everyone.

The post A Look Back at 2016 appeared first on Adventurous Appetite.

Why the hell would anyone want to go to North Korea? This is a question my parents posed, and even my students, as I told them my husband and I were heading to its capital to participate in the annual marathon.

The short answer: curiosity. While living in Seoul, I had the opportunity to listen to stories from several North Korean refugees. How they escaped through China, how they left behind loved ones, and how they lived in a constant state of fear. I remember feeling completely ignorant, as I knew nothing about the country other than the fact they harbored nuclear warheads.

Not that visiting North Korea, or the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), shed much light on the matter. All tour groups (there’s two big ones, Young Pioneers and Koryo) work with the government, are required to follow a certain itinerary and use designated North Korean tour guides. In essence, we saw what the government wanted us to see.

Still, it was fascinating, and I count myself lucky that I was able to go (and leave) before tensions really started rising (I was there in April).

Here’s a look our 3-day tour of Pyongyang, the nation’s capital:

Day 1: Arrival, DMZ, and a lot of looking out the bus window.

Before departing Shanghai, we were briefed on our trip and reminded of the rules:

• No religious paraphernalia.
• No Western literature or films about North Korea.
• Do not take photos of military personnel.
• Do not mock or mimic statues.
• If you take a photo of a statue, the entire statue must be in the frame.
• You are to respect the supreme leaders and refer to Kim Il Sung as President (which he is called for eternity), Kim Jong Il as General (again, he’s the forever general) and Kim Jong Un as Marshall.
• You are not allowed to use the local currency (EUR, USD and CNY are ok) and cannot leave the country with local money.
• Your phone will be temporarily confiscated at the border. You will get it back, but you will not have access to Internet for the duration of your stay.
• You may not leave the group or the hotel at any time.

After arriving  in the early morning hours to the small, quiet airport, we quickly dropped off our things at the hotel and headed to the DMZ, or Demilitarized Zone.

The 2.5 hour drive there was captivating. For 160 km, all we saw were expansive rice fields and the farmers tending to them. Workers appeared as ants against the vast landscape, walking in twos or pedaling bicycles to get to where they were going.

Our visit at the actual “tourist attraction” was met with much less fanfare than in South Korea. No soldiers glaring at one another, no talk of underground tunnels–just a look at the demarcation line and the Military Armistice Commission Conference Room for a bit of a history lesson. One of the guards even posed for pictures.

The rest of the afternoon was spent viewing historical objects and porcelain from the Koryo Dynasty at Kaesong Koryo Museum, buying stamps at Kaesong Korean Stamp Exhibition Hall (I opted to take a nap on the bus instead), and eating a traditional royal Korean lunch.

On the way back to town, we stopped to take pictures at the Arch of Reunification, a big stone symbol of hope that the North and South will one day make peace.

Notice how few cars are on the road. All citizens, with the exception of a few high-level government officials, rely on public transport. Images of women walking hand-in-hand wearing traditional dress and men biking in a straight line made me think of Lois Lowry’s The Giver. 

Day 2: Pyongyang City Tour

Pyongyang is surprisingly beautiful. With its colorful, Soviet style architecture,  lack of advertising, and polished statues of the supreme leaders looming large, it could easily be the backdrop for a post apocalyptic sci-fi film. Here are some sights from around town:

Mansudae Fountain Park: A place our tour guide described as “the best place to take a girl on a romantic date.” When I asked if her boyfriend had taken her there, and she covered her mouth and laughed. I think that’s a yes.

Mansudae Grand Monument:  Perched on top of a hill, overlooking downtown Pyongyang, stands two enormous bronze statues of President Kim Il Sung and General Kim Jong Il. North Koreans lined up to present flowers and bow–treating them like deities. It is expected for foreigners to do the same.

Kim Il Sung Square: The image you’ve seen over and over again on CNN, as it serves as a gathering place for rallies, dances and military parades. Here, soldiers practice marching in unison in order to properly celebrate President Kim Il Sung’s birthday, which was a couple short weeks away.

Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum : An opportunity to learn about the Korean War from the North’s point of view (i.e. why it was America’s fault). The museum features photos, documents, dioramas and captured US military equipment, including the USS Pueblo.

Pyongyang Metro: The deepest subway system in the world at 110 meters, it conveniently doubles as a nuclear bunker, just in case. Each station on the tourist trail artfully depicts North Korea’s revolutionary goals and achievements to impressionable commuters. It’s beautiful, other worldly and, yes, functional.

Foreign Languages Bookshop : Shelves upon shelves stocked with propaganda. This store sells Korean publications translated into English, German, French, Russian, Chinese, and Spanish, so that almost anyone can read about why Kim Jong Il was so great.

The Party Foundation Monument at the Tower of Juche Idea: Located on the Taedong River, the statue celebrating the Worker’s Party of Korea stands tall, celebrating the country’s workers, farmers and intellectuals. It also makes for quite a nice view at sunset.

Day 3: The Marathon

I’m not a runner. In fact, I didn’t even train for the run, convinced I would just walk the 10k while Luke ran the half. But once we walked into that stadium, packed with locals dressed in suits and gowns, clapping in unison, adrenaline took over. I ended up running the entire race–convinced by the fanfare that I was actually an athlete who’d been flown into the country to compete with their runners–people who train six days a week. Needless to say, I had to call out of work the next day and lost a toenail.

The course starts and ends in Kim Il Sung stadium and weaves through the city center. Locals line the streets with outstretched hands, high-fiving you as you run past. Little kids yell “Hello!” and the elderly, “Pali! Pali! (Go, Go!).” They smile, and it appears they’re happy. Then again, it also seems like it’s a mandatory event, since everyone is either in the arena or on the street, cheering in their Sunday best.

And, that’s my point. A beautiful, strange experience that I will never forget; but it’s been three months since I left the DPRK and still don’t know what to make of it.

The post Inside North Korea: Running the Pyongyang Marathon appeared first on Adventurous Appetite.

Today I received a Facebook message from my friend Austin, who paid me the best compliment: “You’ve inspired me to move abroad.”

He’s heading to Costa Rica, with plans of running an online business, while learning Spanish, hitting some waves, and hopefully meeting a girl. In his words, he’s searching for “pura vida,” or “pure life.”

His message reminded me of something I wrote myself eight years ago, just before moving to South Korea. I was full of excitement and optimism and would spend hours scrolling though images of temples,  reading about weekend trips from Seoul, and daydreaming about what my life would be like. I emailed everyone I knew who had spent time abroad to hear their stories.

But Austin included something in his note that I wish I had: he asked for advice, for insight. I thought about what I was going to say for awhile, and figured I’d share my reply with all of you. So, here goes:

1. You will go through various stages of culture shock.

It doesn’t necessarily matter if you’ve been to your new home before, or even if the culture isn’t that different from what you’re used to. Generally, during the first few weeks or even months, you’ll be in the “honeymoon phase.” Everything’s new, exciting, you’re meeting new people, eating new food, and thrilled about your decision to move.

Then, at some point, you’ll come down from the initial high and become frustrated. Maybe it’s the language barrier, the traffic. Maybe the health care procedures are different. The smallest thing can get under your skin and make you question your decision to move abroad.

After this, comes the adjustment stage, where hopefully things start getting easier. You accept that things aren’t as easy, or that you won’t be able to eat your favorite cereal anymore. You’ll make an effort to learn the language.

Finally, you reach acceptance. For some people, they can reach the final stage after a few months; others, a year or more. It’s important to be patient with yourself and understand that everyone goes through it.

2. Things will inevitably be different than you thought they’d be.

When I moved to Colombia, I envisioned myself dancing salsa every night of the week. I would wear a red, floral skirt that twirled beautifully when I danced, and my partner would be a tall, brooding man with slicked-back hair.

The truth is, the schools start at 7am because of the traffic (or hot weather in other parts of the country), so I was too tired to go out during the week. Most of the men I met were my height or shorter, and the cold Bogota nights rarely allowed for flimsy skirts. I mostly wore jeans. This is not to say that I didn’t have a great time in Colombia, because I did. But because of my expectations, it took me awhile to reach the acceptance phase.

3. You’ll make new friends fast, and they’ll quickly become family.

When you’re an expat, you automatically have something in common with all the other expats: you’re all living away from home, away from family. Because of this, you’ll bond with these people quicker than you thought possible. I’ve held a friend’s hand at the hospital before surgery, only one month after meeting her. I was her emergency contact and didn’t think twice about it. I’ve shared Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners with people I’d met a few days before the holidays, and attended marriage ceremonies for friends who had met earlier that same year. Things move quickly and differently than they do back home, and it’s wonderful.

4. The friends you made will leave, and new friends will take their place. It’s a constant cycle.

The same friends who’ll become family one year are likely to leave the next–or at least in a few years’ time. This, unfortunately, is an expat’s reality. We are nomads by nature. We get new opportunities and leap without thinking. But, we’re also great at keeping in touch, and picking right back up where we left off, years later, over cold beers at a reggae bar in Bali.

5. You will change.

This is an undeniable truth. Travel changes you. You will see things that will change the way you think, you will learn new languages and new customs that will expand your mind. You will learn patience and adaptability. Don’t fight it.

6. When you go back home to visit, it will feel different.

There’s something called “reverse culture shock” and it’s real. When I moved back to Florida after two years in Asia, I had a really hard time adjusting. I felt like no one wanted to hear my stories–that I talked too much about my travels. I didn’t feel challenged. I missed the new friends I had made, and felt like my old friends didn’t have as much in common with me as I previously thought. It took a few months (the same as regular culture shock), but I adjusted. And now, when I go home to visit, I treasure the time spent with my childhood friends–catching up on stories and meeting their expanding families. Change is the one constant. Accept it and you’ll find happiness.

7. You’ll miss important things back home.

This is something I still struggle with. One of my best friends is getting married in the spring–two weeks before I have a break. I spent so much time looking at flights, figuring out how to ask that time off from work, factoring in jet lag and travel time, and finally came to the conclusion that I couldn’t make it work. My friend understands, of course, but it’s disappointing. And when her pictures come out on Facebook, I’ll probably cry. This is just part of life.

8. You’ll experience things you never thought you would.

I’ve camped on the Great Wall of China, hiked a glacier in Patagonia, dove the Great Barrier Reef, learned how to dance Tango in Buenos Aires. I’ve studied Mandarin Chinese and spent two days of silence in a temple. I married an Australian man whom I met in Shanghai. These are things that would never have happened if I hadn’t moved abroad. These are things I made happen by taking that leap.

9. At some point you will question why you did this.

One day, when you’re homesick, you’ll be scrolling on Facebook or Instagram. You’ll see pictures of your friends’ babies and how fast they’re growing. You’ll see pictures of weddings, of graduations and holiday parties. You’ll question why you’re not having babies yourself and why you decided to marry someone from other side of the world, making a wedding impossible. You’ll become depressed and convince yourself that all of your friends have moved on and no longer want anything to do with you.

The next day, you’ll find an invite to a “family dinner” from your new friends on Whatsapp. You’ll scroll through the recent pictures on your phone and see a picture of you all smiling on the beach, an image of you waving from atop a mountain. You’ll remember that you are, indeed, happy, and that your friends back home still love you. Everyone has their own definition of happiness.

10. It’s not a vacation (all the time). Find a balance between work, travel and play.

As an international teacher, I admit that I have a lot of vacation time. And now that I’m in Europe, I’ve spent a couple long weekends in Rome and Budapest. Life is good, and travel opportunities abound. But this is only part of my reality. I work really, really hard, and I make an effort to maintain my friendships.

Sometimes it’s easy, especially at the beginning, to be blinded by the excitement of the move. Reality sets in and you may not spend as much time as you want at the beach, or maybe you don’t love your job. All the same problems from home can, and will, follow you at some point. This is just life.

But most of the time, after you settle into life as an expat, it’s exactly what my friend Austin is looking for: Pura Vida.

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